Glossary
GLOSSARY OF INGREDIENTS
- a
- b
- c
- d
- e
- f
- g
- h
- i
- j
- k
- l
- m
- n
- o
- p
- q
- r
- s
- t
- u
- v
- w
- x
- y
- z
AName
Description Benefits
aha
alpha hydroxy acids
aha's
are derived from various plant sources or from milk and include glycolic acid,
lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid amongst others. They are
effective chemical exfoliants, acting to breakdown dead skin
cells.
algae extract
algae extract
rich in
vitamins and trace elements, algae extract can help to rebalance the skin's
moisture content whilst protecting, stimulating and nourishing.
allantoin
allantoin
derived from
comfrey, allantoin is used in cosmetic formulations to help soothe, protect and
calm sensitive skin.
aloe vera extract
aloe barbadensis
renowned
for it's soothing properties, aloe vera is also a softening, hydrating and
moisturising emollient for the skin.
apricot kernel oil
prunus armeniaca
apricot
kernel oil is a rich emollient which mimics the skin's lipid (oil and fat)
content and helps to smooth and soften skin, improving suppleness and
hydration.
arginine
arginine
argenine is an
amino acid that can act to soothe tender areas of the skin.
arnica extract
arnica montana
arnica
extract is reported to help to reduce pain and inflammation from bruising and
strains by enhancing blood circulation.
avocado oil
persea gratissima (avocado) oil unsaponifiables
naturally rich in vitamins and lipids, avocado oil
penetrates the upper layers of the skin helping to nourish and
soften.
azelaic acid
azelaic Acid
derived from
cereals such as wheat, rye and barley, azelaic acid helps in the treatment of
spots and blemishes and also in evening out skin tone.
azulene
azulene
azulene, extracted
from both yarrow and blue chamomile, acts as a free radical scavenger and can
help to soothe inflammation.
BName Description Benefits
babassu oil
orbignya oleifera
extracted from the fruit of the babassu palm, originating
from brazillian rainforests, babassu oil is a rich emollient which leaves the
skin feeling supple and hydrated.
basil oil
cimum basilicum
used
predominantly in aromatherapy preparations, basil oil aids concentration and
helps to relieve stress and nervous tension. when applied topically, it can
benefit and refresh congested skin.
bay oil
pimenta acris
bay oil is
used in aromatherapy preparations where it acts as a tonic; warming and
stimulating the senses.
bearberry extract
aretostaphylos uva ursi
bearberry extract, derived from the plant of the same name,
contains arbutin which helps to lighten and even out skin tones.
beeswax
cera alba
beeswax is a
substance made by bees to build the walls of their honey comb. It has natural
emollient properties helping the skin to feel softer and more supple.
bergamot oil
citrus bergamium bergamia
bergamot oil is predominantly used in aromatherapy
preparations to restore the human spirit and to target depression. It also has
known antiseptic properties, although care should be taken when applied
topically as it can be an irritant under exposure to sunlight.
bha
beta
hydroxy acid
also known as salicylic acid, bha
is used in formulations targeted at reducing the appearance of blemishes. as a
derivative of aspirin (chemical name acetyl salicylic acid) it also has known
anti-inflammatory properties and in much the same way as aha's (see aha's), it
can act as a chemical exfoliant for the surface of the skin.
avocado oil
persea gratissima (avocado) oil unsaponifiables
bisabolol is a chemical extracted from chamomile which
is known for it���s anti-inflammatory properties.
bisabolol
bisabolol
derived from
cereals such as wheat, rye and barley, azelaic acid helps in the treatment of
spots and blemishes and also in evening out skin tone.
borage oil
borago officinalis
extracted from borage seeds, borage oil is high in gamma
linoleic acid (gla). Gla's, as well as having excellent emollient properties
also have anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties thus helping to promote
healthy skin cell growth.
CName Description Benefits
caffeine
caffeine
caffeine helps to
tone the skin and it may also be helpful in targeting areas of the skin with
concentrated fatty deposits.
calendula extract
calendula officinalis
calendula extract, derived from the plant commonly known as
'pot marigold' is rich in carotenoides and flavenoides and is reported to have
anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
camellia kissi oil
camellia kissi
traditionally used in far eastern hair and scalp treatments,
camellia kissi oil is an emollient rich in unsaturated fatty acids, important
for the formation and maintenance of the skin's lipid barrier.
camphor
camphor
either extracted
from the cinnamomum camphora tree, originating in south east asia or produced
synthetically. Camphor produces a cooling effect and dilates blood vessels when
applied to the skin, which helps to promote muscle relaxation.
carrageenan
chondris crispus
derived
from seaweed, carrageenan forms a protective gel when applied to the
skin.
carrot oil
daucus carrota sativa
carrot oil, naturally high in carrotenoides, acts as an
emollient and can help to protect the skin against free-radicals.
castor seed oil
ricinus communis
a
vegetable oil derived from the castor bean. Castor oil acts as a natural
emollient, helping the skin to retain its natural water content.
cedarwood oil
cedrus atlantica
used
primarily in aromatherapy formulations, cedarwood oil helps to calm and soothe
the mind.
centella asiatica extract
centella asiatica
a herbal
extract also known as asiatic acid, centella asiatica can be beneficial in cases
of psoriasis. It also helps to soothe skin inflammation, cuts and
lesions.
chamomile oil
chamomilla recutita
when
applied topically, chamomile oil helps to soothe the skin and fight against free
radicals.
chitosan
chitosan
chitosan is a
common chemical used in the pharmaceutical industry and can help the skin to
recover from cuts and lesions and also helps to fight infection and
inflammation.
clove oil
eugena caryophyllus
used
moderately, clove oil can help to fight infection and acts as a general
stimulant.
cocoa butter
theobroma cacao
extracted
from cocoa beans, cocoa butter melts at body temperature and is a rich emollient
helping the skin to feel soft and hydrated.
coconut oil
cocos nucifera
coconut oil
is a skin emollient, acting to help the skin feel soft and smooth.
cornflower extract
centaurea cyanum
extracted
from the pale blue flowers of the same name, cornflower extract helps to soothe
pain and reduce inflammation.
dead sea minerals
maris sal
dead sea salt
and dead sea mud are exceptionally high in minerals and trace elements and can
be helpful in reducing the discomfort caused by psoriasis.
dimethcone copolyol
dimethicone copolyol
see
silicones.
dimethicone
dimethicone
see
silicones.
edelweiss extract
gnaphallium leontopodium extract
extracted from farmed edelweiss plants (due to the rarity of
the species in the wild), edelweiss can help to protect the skin against the
harmful effects of uv radiation.
egf
epidermal growth factor
segf stimulates cell division and is particularly helpful in
soothing and easing the discomfort of sore and inflamed skin.
elastin
elastin
elastin is found
in the upper layers of the skin where it plays a major role in giving skin its
elasticity. It also acts as a humectant, drawing water onto the skin.
esculin
esculin
esculin is derived
from horse chestnut (aesculus hippocastanum) and can be helpful in exfoliating
the skin.
eucalyptus oil
eucalyptus globulus
eucalyptus oil is well know for helping decongestion and also
has antibacterial, antifungal and antiviral properties.
euphrasia oil
euphrasia officinallis
euphrasia extract or eyebright is helpful in soothing and
toning the skin.
evening primrose oil
oenothera biennis
evening
primrose oil contains gamma linoleic acid (gla). gla's, as well as having
excellent emollient properties also have anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory
properties thus helping to promote healthy skin growth.
fennel extract
foeniculum vulgare
fennel
seed extract helps to protect the skin from free radicals.
frankincense oil
boswellia carterii
used as
a fragrance ingredient for perfumes and cosmetics, frankincence is also used in
aromatherapy preparations to help to calm and soothe the mind.
geranium oil
pelargonium graveolens
geranium oil is used in aromatherapy preparations to help
lift the spirits and quell anxiety. It can also help to fight infection when
applied topically.
ginkgo biloba
gingko biloba
extracted
from the leaves of the ginkgo or maidenhead tree, ginkgo biloba is known to have
anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties as well as aiding in the
production of collagen.
ginseng oil
panax ginseng
ginseng is
used to nourish the skin helping to relieve dryness and to increase
elasticity.
glycerin
glycerin
glycerin is a
material that is present in all natural animal or vegetable fats. It is a known
humectant which helps to draw moisture onto the skin.
glyceryl stearate
glyceryl stearate
glyceryl
stearate is used in cosmetic and skincare preparations as an
emollient.
glyceryl stearate
glycolic acid
see
aha's.
grapefruit oil
persea gratissima (avocado) oil unsaponifiables
naturally rich in vitamins and lipids, avocado oil
penetrates the upper layers of the skin helping to nourish and
soften.
grapeseed oil
vitis vinifera
grapeseed
oil is a natural emollient that helps to nourish the skin whilst also providing
protection from oxidation.
green tea extract
camellia sinensis
green
tea is a natural source of polyphenols which have excellent anti-inflammatory
and anti-oxidant properties.
guarana extract
paullina cupana
high in
caffeine which may help areas of the skin with concentrated fat
deposits.
hazel nut oil
corylus americana
a
natural emollient, hazel nut oil helps the skin retain moisture and improves
overall skin feel.
ho wood oil
tilia cordata
a form of
camphor, ho wood oil helps to clear congestion when used in aromatherapy
preparations.
honey
mel
honey acts to soften and moisturise the
skin.
hops oil
humulus lupulus
hops oil
is reported to have anti-oxidant and antibacterial properties. It can act as a
soporific when used in aromatherapy preparations.
horse chestnut extract
aesculus hippocastanum
horse chestnut can aid in soothing inflamed areas of the skin
and also helps to improve skin elasticity.
horsetail extract
equisetum hiemale
used
moderately in topical preparations, horsetail extract can help to protect the
skin against oxidation.
hyaluronic acid
hyaluronic acid
hyaluronic
acid is a major part of the structure of the skin where it acts to bind moisture
and to increase hydration.
isopropyl myristate
isopropyl myristate
isopropyl myristate is an emollient skin conditioning agent
derived from coconut oil.
ivy extract
glechoma hederacea
can
help to stimulate skin cells, ivy extract also has astringent
properties.
jasmine oil
jasminum officinale
derived from the exotic jasmine flower, jasmine oil imparts
feeling of warmth and vitality to the senses.
jojoba oil
buxus chinensis
jojoba oil
mimics the lipid (oil and fat) content of the skin helping the skin to retain
its natural moisture content and improving its look and feel.
juniper berry oil
juniperus communis
juniper
berry helps to soothe inflamed areas of the skin and to regulate sebum
production. When used in aromatherapy preparations, it can help to relieve the
mind of feelings of negativity.
kaolin
kaolin
kaolin is generally
used in mask formulations to help to absorb moisture from the skin whilst at the
same time drawing out impurities and toxins.
kiwi extract
actnidia cinensis
kiwi
fruit extract has significant antioxidant properties and when applied in topical
preparations, it helps to fight the damaging effects of free
radicals.
kojic acid
kojic acid
kojic acid is a
natural by-product of the manufacturing process of the japanese rice wine
'sake'. It helps to inhibit the skin's production of melanin, the pigment in
skin cells responsible for providing dark skin tone. As well as helping to
lighten the appearance of the skin, kojic acid helps to protect the skin from
free radical attack.
kukui nut oil
aleurites moluccana
| extracted from the nut of the kukui tree, an
evergreen native to the hawaii, kukui nut oil is an emollient with a high
lipid content, which helps to smooth and soften the skin and prevent the
loss of moisture. |
lactic acid
lactic acid
see
aha's.
laminaria digitata
laminaria digitata
laminaria digitata is a species of seaweed that is found in
particular abundance along the northern coast of brittany in france, where the
climate is particularly stable due to the gulf stream. Seaweed extracts and
concentrates trace elements from seawater and current scientific studies show
that laminaria digitata is the most effective at doing this, with the mineral
content of the plant averaging between 25% and 30%. Making these trace elements
available by way of topical preparations laminaria digitata helps to soften,
nourish and tone the skin.
lanolin
lanolin lanolin is derived
from sheep's wool where it is deposited via the sebaceous glands. It has long
had the reputation of being an allergen or sensitising agent but recent studies
have shown that this reputation is largely undeserved. It is an excellent
emollient, very closely resembling the lipid make-up of human skin and acts to
nourish, soften and retain the skin's natural moisture content.
lavender oil
lavendula angustifolia used as
a fragrance ingredient or in aromatherapy preparations, lavender oil is renowned
for its ability to calm, soothe and relax the mind. Applied onto the skin it
acts as a natural antiseptic helping to fight bacterial growth.
lemon oil
citrus limonum lemon oil helps
to cool and refresh the senses and also has antiseptic properties.
licorice extract
citrus limonum licorice
extract helps to soothe inflamed areas of the skin.
linoleic acid
linoleic acid
linoleic acid is an unsaturated fatty
acid found naturally in the upper layers of the skin. When applied topically it
has been shown to help skin cell regulation and skin barrier repair and also to
prevent free radical damage.
macademia nut oil
macadamia ternifolia
macademia nut oil is used as an emollient and helps in the
treatment of dry and dehydrated skin.
menthol
menthol
menthol is a
cooling and refreshing ingredient derived from the peppermint plant.
milk protein
caseis proteins have many
benefits to the skin but primarily they are used for their water binding and
emollient properties.
monoi oil
gardenia tahitensis monoi oil
is a rich emollient made by seeping the white, tahitian tiare flowers in coconut
oil and has been traditionally used by tahitian women (vahines) to condition and
nourish their skin and hair.
mulberry extract
morus alba mulberry extract
contains arbutin and is helpful in the prevention of melanin
production.
myrtle extract
myrtus communis
used
moderately in topical preparations, myrtle extract can act as an antiseptic.
neroli oil
citrus aurantium amara
derived from the blossom of the bitter orange tree, neroli
oil has a beautifully characteristic floral / citrus fragrance and can be used
in aromatherapy preparations to calm stress and relieve anxiety.
olive oil
olea europaea
olive oil is
a rich emollient with a high lipid content. It helps the skin retain its natural
moisture and it also has anti-oxidant properties, helping to prevent free
radical damage to the skin.
orange oil
citrus dulcis
olive oil is
a rich emollient with a high lipid content. It helps the skin retain its natural
moisture and it also has anti-oxidant properties, helping to prevent free
radical damage to the skin.
panthenol
panthenol
panthenol is an
easily absorbed precursor to vitamin b5 which is known to help moisturise the
skin and protect against inflammation.
papaya extract
carica papaya
papaya
extract is a good source of papain, which has been shown to have exfoliating
properties when applied to the skin.
patchouli oil
pogostemon cablin patchouli is
a fragrant oil derived from mint. It can help to revive the senses and is also
known for its astringent qualities.
peach kernel oil
prunus persica peach kernel
oil is an emollient with a high lipid content which helps smooth and soften the
skin and prevent loss of moisture.
peppermint oil
mentha piperita cooling and
refreshing, peppermint oil helps to soften the skin tone and can help to reduce
inflammation.
petitgrain oil
citrus aurantium amara made
from distilling the leaves and twigs of the bitter orange tree, petitgrain has a
beautifully characteristic floral / citrus fragrance and can be used in
aromatherapy preparations to calm stress and relieve anxiety.
pine oil
pinus palustris pine oil is
generally used in aromatherapy preparations where it can help to stimulate the
senses. It is also used to ease breathing.
quillaja extract
quillaja saponaria
extracted from the chilean soap bark tree, quillaja extract
contains a high level of saponins which can cleanse and disinfect the skin.
retinol
retinol
technical name for
vitamin a. retinol can help to increase skin cell production and increase the
thickness of the epidermis.
rice bran oil
oryza sativa
rice bran oil
is an emollient with a high lipid content which helps smooth and soften the skin
and prevent loss of moisture.
rose oil
rosa damascena with its
beautiful, distinctive fragrance, rose oil can help to ease stress and tension.
It is very good for dry and sensitive skins and can help to reduce
inflammation.
rosehip oil
rosa canines rose hip oil is a
good emollient oil which can help to prevent oxidation of the skin.
rosemary oil
rosmarinus officinalis used
moderately in topical preparations, rosemary oil can help prevent free radical
damage to the skin. Its distinctive aroma can help ease mental fatigue and
lethargy.
rosewood oil
aniba rosaeodora rosewood is a
reviving essential oil helping to lift the spirits and clear the mind. It can
also help congestion and puffiness and ease muscle fatigue.
safflower oil
carthumus tinctorium
rich
emollient when applied to the skin, safflower oil can also help to relieve
oxidative damage to the skin.
salicylic acid
salicylic acid
see
bha's.
sandalwood oil
santalum album a comforting
oil when used in aromatherapy preparations, sandalwood oil can also help to
soften dehydrated skin.
shea butter
butyrospermum parkii a natural
lipid derived from the fruit of the african karite tree, shea butter is a rich
emollient which helps the skin retain its natural moisture content. It also
naturally contains vitamins a, d and e and can help to soothe sensitive or
inflamed skin and fight against free radical damage.
silicones
silicones derived from silica,
silicones are well known for imparting slip (a silky feeling) to cosmetic and
skincare formulations.
silk protein
hydrolysed silk derived from
the cocoon of the silkworm, silk protein has excellent water binding properties
and thus attracts moisture to the skin. It also can help protect the skin by
acting as an anti-oxidant.
sod
super
oxide dismutase an enzyme which plays a key part in
converting harmful free radicals into inert non-damaging molecules, superoxide
dismutase is a potent anti-oxidant.
squalane
squalane derived predominantly
from olive oil, squalane is a natural component of the skin and is a good
emollient that can also help to prevent oxidation damage.
st john's wort
hypeicum perforatum st. john's
wort has anti-bacterial and astringent properties when used on the skin and can
also help to prevent free radical damage.
sugar cane extract
saccharum officinarum sugar
cane extract adheres to the skin forming a protective layer helping to restore
suppleness and reduce flakiness.
sunflower seed oil
helianthus annus an abundant
base material, sunflower seed oil is a rich emollient which helps to smooth and
soften the skin.
sweet almond oil
prunus amygdalus dulcis a
natural emollient, sweet almond oil has a high lipid content and helps to
prevent the skins natural tendency to dehydrate.
tea tree oil
melaleuca alternifolia
tea
tree oil, derived from the australian melaleuca tree has unique disinfecting
properties which has been shown to be effective in fighting the bacteria that
causes blemishes.
tyrosine
tyrosine
tyrosine is an
amino acid which initiates the production of melanin, the skin's chemical
responsible for the tanning process.
tocopherol acetate
tocopherol acetate
the
technical name for vitamin e, tocopherol acetate helps to prevent oxidative
damage to the skin including reducing the effects of free radical damage from
over exposure to uv radiation. The fact that it is oil soluble means that it is
retained effectively in the lipid layer where it is able to benefit the skin the
most.
vetitvert oil
vetioveria zizanoides
obtained from the roots of the tropical grass vetiovera
zizanoides, vetitvert oil is a balancing, tension relieving essential oil. When
used in topical preparations, it acts as an antiseptic.
vitamin a
retinyl palmitate
see
retinol.
vitamin e
tocopherol acetate
see
tocopherol acetate.
vitamin c
ascorbic acid
see ascorbyl
palmitate.
wheatgerm oil
triticum vulgare
wheat
germ oil is an emollient with a high lipid content which helps smooth and soften
the skin and prevent loss of moisture. it also contains high levels of vitamin
e, renowned for its anti-oxidation properties.
witch hazel extract
hamamelis virgiana
shigh
in tannins, witch hazel helps to tighten the skin.
yarrow oil
achillea millefolium extract
yarrow helps to soothe inflamed areas of the skin.
yeast protein
saccharomyces cerevisiae extract
extracted from yeast, the group of fungi that ferment sugars,
yeast protein helps to protect against free radical damage.
ylang ylang oil
cananga odorata
a
beautifully sweet fragrant oil derived from the exotic yellow flowers of the
cananga tree of madagascar, ylang ylang is predominantly used in aromatherapy
preparations to relax the nerves and restore a sense of calm.
zinc oxide
zinc oxide
zinc oxide is
an inert material used primarily as a sunscreen ingredient in cosmetics.
|
|
|
