A new season brings with it new trends and this one is all about creating the ultimate statement eye. Forget super precise winged liner which only those with the steadiest of hands can master, instead we’re championing a more artistic and freehand approach with the help of NARS’s Lead Makeup artist Vincent Ford. “The focus for this eye was around the new NARS High Pigment Longwear Eyeliners,” explains Vincent. “I wanted to create a deconstructed, modern version of a smoky eye. I wanted the edges to be organic and not symmetrical.” Read on for the techniques and tips he used to create the eye-catching look from our AW19 issue…
Step One: Sketch Out The Shape
Begin by choosing your eyeliner shade. Vincent kept it autumnal with shade Park Avenue, a luxuriously rich dark navy which is a softer and more flattering alternative to black – especially on paler skins. Next, mark off where you want the colour to go up to. Top tip: keep your eye open for this and mark just where your eye creases. If you do this with your eye looking down, you run the risk of making the line too high. Then follow the line of your crease and roughly pencil in.
Step Two: Colour In The Eyelid
After you have your desired line, pencil the colour in all over your eye lid with gentle strokes. The gel-like formula means they glide on with ease and deliver instant pigment without dragging or pulling the fragile and delicate skin around the eye.
Step Three: Fill Out The Sides
Now take the pencil and fill out either side. “Keep in mind you’re creating a shape that is pleasing for your eye,” suggests Vincent. “I kept the shape straight at the top to give a lift to the eye instead of a more rounded shape.” Vertical lines from the corner of your eye and the outer of your eye upwards will create an artistic look which requires very little precision. If you have more lid space, you can afford to go for a more rounded shape.
Step Three: Apply A Second Shade
If you want to amp up your look even further, try adding a second colour over the top to create a more multi-dimensional finish. Vincent applied shade Grafton Street, a deep green, to finish the colour but take your pick from the 16 different matte or metallic shades in the collection.
Step Four: Blend With A Brush
Next, take a brush (Vincent uses NARS’s Cream Blending Brush #12) and softly blend the colour on the eyelid making sure you leave the raw lines at the edges untouched. Finally, allow the completed look to set for 15 seconds or so and the liner won’t budge all day; the liners promise 12-hour wear and are even water-resistant too. To finish the look, coat curled lashes with NARS’ Climax Mascara on the top lashes only to add further dimension and really open up your eyes.
For a different take on this look, Vincent also played with the idea of negative space in our shoot, offering a different option to a fully shaded in lid. “This time I took the Grafton Street shade and with the eye open, created a shape that ran through the model’s crease,” he explains. “It is important to have the eye open to get the placement just right. I then filled in the outer corner with the liner and left the lid bare to act as an almost highlight in juxtaposition of the darker liner. This is a great shape for anyone with small lids as it makes the eye appear bigger.”