Your Ultimate Guide To Retinol

What does retinol do?

To understand exactly what retinol does, it’s worth understanding what collagen is. As the most abundant protein in our bodies, collagen’s main role is to provide strength and support – this includes replacing dead skin cells and giving structure and elasticity to the skin. Collagen production slows down as we age – which leads to, amongst other things, fine lines and wrinkles.

Now, this is where retinol comes in. Retinol is not something our bodies produce naturally, but a component of the vitamin A family that’s most commonly known for stimulating collagen production. Additionally, retinol’s superpowers don’t stop at reducing fine lines – it’s also been proven to target acne and help reduce pigmentation, clear pores and boost a brighter complexion.

What retinol strength should I use?

The strength of retinol you choose mainly depends on where you are in your vitamin A journey. If you’re new to it, start with a low-strength serum, like The INKEY List’s Starter Retinol Serum or BYOMA’s Sensitive Retinol Oil, to gently build tolerance. For more experienced users, there’s retinal, which is one step closer to retinoic acid and therefore stronger and faster-acting.

“Think of it like this: retinol eases you in. Retinal gets straight to the point,” say The INKEY List founders, Colette and Mark Laxton.

“Retinol takes a couple of steps inside the skin before it becomes active. That makes it slower, gentler, and easier to live with. It’s the ingredient I always recommend if you’re new to vitamin A or if your skin tends to be a bit… dramatic.”

When it comes to increasing strength, “This is the bit people rush,” they add. “Don’t. Low and slow wins the race! You’re ready to move on when you’ve used your current strength consistently for at least eight to 12 weeks, your skin isn’t getting red, flaky, or irritated, and everything feels comfortable and normal." At this point, look to more potent formulas like INKEY's Advanced Retinal Serum or Skin Rocks Retinoid 2.

Best retinol for beginners

Serums and oils with a low strength will be your best friends when starting out with retinol - it's the ideal way to steadily introduce your skin to retinol. You won’t need more than a pea-sized amount, and, if you want to be super safe, you can start with applying it as little as twice a week.

How do I start using retinol in my routine?

Retinol is a powerful ingredient, and it’s normal for skin to react or feel irritated at first. Begin by using it once or twice a week, allowing your skin to build tolerance, and gradually increase the frequency as your skin adjusts.

Once you’ve cleansed your skin, let it dry completely and apply a thin layer of your retinol serum. Wait around 10 minutes before applying your hydrating serums and moisturiser. Also, remember once you start using retinol, SPF is even more of an essential so make sure you apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen every day (if you don't already!).

At what age should I start using retinol?

“Honestly? Earlier than most people think. Mid-20s is a great time to start. Not because your skin is ageing badly, but because vitamin A helps keep skin behaving well long-term and (unfortunately), post-25 all the good stuff being made in your skin starts to be made less!” say Colette and Mark. “It supports collagen, smooths texture and helps future-proof your skin. It’s not just about fixing problems. It's about preventing them quietly in the background.”

However, the overriding consensus is that teenagers shouldn’t use retinol (unless it’s under a doctor’s prescription) as their skin barrier is still very much evolving and could get damaged by an excess use of vitamin A. So, for the most part, there is no need to start using retinol before your mid-twenties.

“Retinol, like all skincare products, doesn’t come with a ‘use at this age’ label because we all have different concerns at different ages,” says Heather Wish, Paula's Choice Skincare Education Manager in the UK. If you're unsure of when to start using a retinol, our beauty advisors in store and online can help assist you, as well as help build a skincare routine that works for your age, skin type and budget.

How often should I use retinol for optimal results?

Using one form of retinol once a day is generally enough to see visible results over time. However, this does not apply to first-time retinol users. If you’re new to retinol - unless you’re using a very gentle formula and experience no irritation - you should start by applying it every other night or just a few times a week. This gradual approach, used at night, may be necessary for several months or even up to a year before increasing frequency.

How long does retinol take to work?

Retinol results vary depending on the formula, and of course, the person – but generally, it can be a few months (think 12 weeks) before you see any visible results. Given that this ingredient helps to reduce (and even prevent) fine lines and wrinkles, decongest pores, target hyperpigmentation and clear acne, we believe it’s worth the wait – patience is key!

What other ingredients pair well with retinol?

Hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid and squalane pair well with retinol, helping to counteract flakiness or irritation. Niacinamide, known for its anti-inflammatory and pore-clearing properties, is also safe to use together.

As for the other hero ingredient we all know and love, vitamin C, it’s recommended that you stick with retinol at night, and vitamin C in the morning.

What ingredients shouldn't I use with retinol?

Don’t be tempted to use harsh scrubs, exfoliants, or acids like AHAs and BHAs in the same sitting as retinol. While not a traditional exfoliant, retinol does boost skin cell turnover and slough off dead skin cells, so adding AHAs or BHAs on top can lead to dryness, redness, and a very unhappy skin barrier. If you want both in your routine, alternate the days you use retinol and these acids.

As mentioned, be cautious when combining vitamin C with retinol, especially if you’re new to actives. While some formulations contain both, a safe starting point is vitamin C in the morning and retinol at night. And, as always, never skip SPF.

What are the potential side effects of retinol?

It’s common for skin to initially react to retinol with redness, dryness, flakiness, peeling and overall irritation – it’s a powerful ingredient that’s potentially making crucial changes.

“When starting to use retinol, regardless of age and strength, skin needs to acclimatise to it – so take it slowly,” says Niamh. “Since retinol is a potent, bioactive ingredient, it can result in some side effects,” adds Heather. “If you experience any issues, experiment with your retinol use. It could be that your skin can only tolerate it once or twice a week, instead of daily". You could also be more sensitive to higher concentrations of retinol, meaning it’s a good idea to seek out a product with a lower percentage. Irritation should disappear steadily, as skin will eventually build a tolerance to – and welcome – retinol.

Can I use retinol while pregnant?

The answer to this is no, as it’s widely believed the use of retinol and any other form of vitamin A during pregnancy may interfere with the development of the foetus. Staying off vitamin A whilst breastfeeding is also recommended.

Retinol alternatives

Irritation is not an automatic given when starting to use retinol, especially if it’s introduced in a slow manner. However, if the irritation you’re experiencing from retinol is persistent and intense, you’ll probably have to avoid this ingredient altogether.

But not to worry, there are plenty of great alternatives if retinol is out of the question. Bakuchiol, a plant derivative used in traditional Chinese and Indian medicine, is known to help treat acne and improve the appearance of wrinkles and hyperpigmentation. Then, there’s azelaic acid which unclogs pores and refines skin's surface, while also serving as a potent antioxidant that reduces sensitivity and bumps. And let’s not forget niacinamide, which can work wonders with retinol but definitely doesn’t disappoint on its own.

What you need to remember about retinol

Caution, consistency and patience are key when it comes to starting your retinol journey. It’s likely that after some time you’ll find your skin is truly reaping the benefits of retinol – and you may be ready to explore more potent forms of vitamin A, such as retinaldehyde and tretinoin. Until then, make the most of what retinol has to offer!