Does Skincare Work Better Overnight?

Do circadian rhythms impact the skin?

The circadian rhythm is your internal body clock, but did you know that the skin has its own version that influences everything from cell renewal to barrier function. Any disruption to your sleep and downtime therefore does have an effect on the skin, both positively and negatively. For example, broken to little sleep can mean you might suffer from transepidermal water loss leaving the skin barrier drier and so more vulnerable.

On the plus side, studies have shown that the repair of DNA-damaged skin cells, as a result of UV exposure, peaks at night, proving that adequate sleep is essential for cell renewal and repair. Specific times have even been pinpointed by researchers, with 4am heralded as ‘prime time’ for your topical skincare to be absorbed. This is because the skin barrier is at its most permeable, unlike during the daylight hours when absorption rates slow.

Blood flow also increases while you sleep, delivering must-have nutrients and oxygen to the skin, as well as boosting the efficacy of ingredients in products as they can pass through the skin and into the deeper layers far easier. Growth hormones also get to work at night, rebuilding cells and producing collagen while the skin’s biggest nemesis, cortisol drops which reduces inflammation in the skin so it can calm down while you sleep.

Does the amount of sleep you get affect your skin?

“A formula won’t necessarily work better because you sleep eight hours rather than five but good quality sleep supports the skin’s natural recovery and barrier function. We know these processes take place throughout the night so consistency and overall sleep quality matter more,” continues Dr Hasia. “We also know that chronic lack of sleep can contribute to inflammation, dehydration and a compromised skin barrier so skincare and good sleep really do go hand in hand.”

Are there any particular ingredients we should be using at night?

Retinoids are the obvious choice here because they are the gold standard in skincare and have scientific evidence showing that they support collagen production, cell turnover, pigmentation and skin texture. Dr Hasi also recommends peptides, antioxidants and barrier-supporting ingredients that help to support the skin while it goes through its natural overnight recovery process. Don’t get too caught up on ingredients though, she says:

“The key is choosing actives that address your individual concerns rather than layering multiple strong ingredients simply because they’re available. And a product doesn’t have to be labelled ‘night cream’. Drier skins will need richer overnight hydration from a thicker, luxe cream while for other skin types, a lighter moisturiser or targeted serum may be more appropriate.”

As for age, the experts suggest mid-to-late twenties is the time to start being proactive when it comes to your overnight routine and preserving collagen. “It doesn’t need to be an elaborate routine, it’s simply about introducing well-chosen, evidence-based ingredients early and using them consistently,” concludes Dr Hasia.

Want to know the products making up our evening routine? These are some of the go-to formulas that we slather on before we sleep…