Why Ectoin is Beauty's New 'It' Ingredient
Below is our expert guide to ectoin for skin – its exceptional benefits, how it can transform your beauty regime and everything else you need to know about 2024’s powerhouse ingredient.
What is ectoin?
Ectoin is a type of short-chain amino acid called ‘extremolytes’ – a small, unique group of molecules found in plants and microorganisms that allow them to thrive in the planet’s most extreme environments, including harsh temperatures, no water and exposure to damaging UV rays. Ectoin works by forming a protective hydration barrier around cells, creating a shield against environmental stress. And, most excitingly, it can offer a wealth of similar properties for skin, too such as binding water to the skin to prevent transepidermal water loss (which leads to dryness) as well as reducing inflammation.
This gentle, hydrating and anti-inflammatory ingredient is also suitable for all skin types. According to Nicolas Travis, founder of Allies of Skin, “ecotoin is great for especially sensitised, post-procedure and acne-prone skin too, as it is brilliant for reducing inflammation.”
What are the benefits of ectoin?
Hydration: Ectoin is considered a super hydrator thanks to its ability to bind water molecules to the skin barrier, ensuring long-lasting moisture retention. By maintaining an optimal level of hydration, skin remains supple, plump and deeply nourished.
Reduces inflammation: By holding water in place, ectoin allows water to interact with lipids in the skin, stabilising its natural barrier and building up strength. Keeping moisture locked in and external irritants out, inflammatory responses such as redness, dryness, and even eczema are minimised.
Anti-ageing: With potent antioxidant properties, ectoin helps prevent free radicals – such as pollution, UV damage and blue light – from penetrating the delicate skin barrier, which can contribute to signs of premature ageing. Instead, by improving skin elasticity and promoting cell renewal, ectoin works to visibly neutralise the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines over time.
Retinoid tolerance: Ectoin is known to enhance the efficacy of many moisturisers and can actually help mitigate the well-documented side effects of skin exfoliants like AHA, BHA, and retinoids, which can often lead to redness, irritation and moisture loss.
How to use ectoin in your skincare routine
It may be a superstar on its own, but as an amino acid, its potency is amplified when combined with other active ingredients that share ectoin’s benefits. For example, paired with antioxidants like vitamin C and bakuchiol, ectoin offers enhanced protection against environmental stressors and improves brightness, while humectants such as hyaluronic acid or glycerin will target areas most in need of hydration. Ectoin also features in a broad spectrum of products that can seamlessly integrate into your everyday skincare rotation, including daily moisturisers, serums, night creams and essences.
How does ectoin protect the skin barrier?
“Barrier health is the new IT concern and ectoin is one of those active ingredients that just truly work on repairing the skin and protecting the barrier,” Travis tells us. Ectoin helps support the skin’s all-important microbiome by correcting its water balance, replenishing hydration, and keeping its protective barrier strong. As a result, damage caused by environmental factors like UV radiation, pollution and high temperatures is forestalled from entering the skin, leading to a visible reduction in fine lines, inflammation and redness. The result? A healthier, more resilient complexion.
Our favourite ectoin skincare products
A daily moisturiser is the simplest way to start diving into the magic of ectoin skincare. We recommend Dr. Jart+’s Ceramidin Infused Ectoin Cream, which not only harnesses the power of ectoin but also features five types of ceramides to strengthen the skin barrier and provide deep, lasting hydration.
Susanne Kaufmann was one of the first to extol the virtues of ectoin and, as such, the ingredient has been fundamental to many of the label’s innovative formulations, including the Repair Serum. This lightweight liquid works to restore the skin’s resilience and reduce the appearance of blemishes.
Overnight, skin undergoes its natural repair processes to reverse daily damage, making it the optimal time to reap the rewards of ectoin. Biossance’s Overnight Rescue is enriched with a cocktail of squalane, peptides and magnesium to leave skin feeling silky-soft and nourished by morning.
An investment option, Allies of Skin Copper Tripeptide & Ectoin Advanced Repair Serum is an ultra-concentrated formula supercharged by ectoin and copper tripeptides to stimulate collagen production and firm skin.
Our final thoughts on ectoin for skin
In short, ectoin is a miracle multitasker. Years of over-exfoliating, sun exposure and pollution can compromise your skin barrier, leading to irritation, dryness and premature ageing. Ectoin is an antidote to these skincare concerns. With its hydrating and calming effects, along with its reparative properties, ectoin’s benefits are truly transformative and it’s evident why it’s becoming one of the most sought-after skincare ingredients of 2024.
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